Margiela’s autumn winter 1997 1998 collection featured new versions of the previous season’s stockman tailoring dummy. He used even more explicit references to the materials and process of clothing construction. There were jackets made of pattern paper, visible basting stitches, and layered looks that were literally pinned together in parts. One-armed and asymmetric garments gave the impression they were half-finished. The wigs were made from old fur coats, commissioned from Bless. the collection was unveiled at three different locations around Paris with the models ferried from place to place on a rented bus and accompanied by a Belgian brass band.